Thursday, November 28, 2013

Big Day

Unlike George Bush, when I say "Mission accomplished" I really mean it. Of course his mission was pernicious and ill defined. Mine was simple. I had to get a 30 extension on my visa so I can arrange my life as I wish.

The thing is that you have to leave the country and when you come back in they only give you 15 days which would leave me in a pickle no matter how I play it because of plane tickets already bought for 24 days from now. I am in Chiang Rai which is in the Golden Triangle where Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet. The claim to fame here, aside from stunning scenery, is the infamous drug trade which was monumentally escalated during the US occupation of South Vietnam. Remember Air America the CIA's drug planes? People here certainly do.

Strange to think about, but it was the bombing of Laos (more bombs dropped on Laos than on any country ever in the history of warfare.) and the lies told to the American public about it that jumped the anti-war protests from big to massive to shutting down the war. That's my memory of the deal.

Burma is 'all right' for travel right now except for this area. But I was told that it is a border where one can cross over and cross back and get a 15 day extension. I set out this morning to do so. I walked to the bus station, took a minivan for 1 1/2 hours, then took a truck to the Myanmar border. I thought it was going to be a sketchy crossing like some in Guatemala/Honduras. Instead it is a gigantic endless, market selling everything. I mean everything. For instance you can buy deadly snakes, you can buy pieces of meat that you don't want to ask what they are. You can buy gold, diamonds and there it was..the first one I have seen in my life, a Lambroghini show room.

No shit. There is definitely money in the drug trade. There is certainly poverty. The old Chinese field workers looked so broken down. (they are probably 40). I wasn't shopping. I was doing the border thing. So I left Thailand and walked across the bridge into Myanmar. I was greeted by the most friendly young policemen! "Welcome to Myanmar!" Smiles! "Please sit, Madame Mama!" Smiles! (The government there is one of the most repressive anywhere. You know that.) I sat down and they said "That will be 500 Baht." I asked what would be 500. "To come into the country. Please Miss Mama, have a seat over here and we will take your photo."

He now is holding my passport and my 500 TB. I go over and have my picture taken. He gives me a slip of paper and says "Now you can enjoy our country for 1 maybe 2 hours." I asked for my passport back and he says, "No." I reached out to take it off his desk and his hand blocked mine so fast you wouldn't believe it. He said "You can have your passport when you leave the country." Now I was giving myself about ten lectures at once mainly consisting of the fact that I really needed to go to the bathroom, really wanted a smoke and if I open my big mouth it could take forever to undo what I might say.

I know I have mentioned that I don't do well with repression or oppression or dumb shit authority. So, with lovely control, I said that I changed my mind and didn't want one or maybe 2 hours in his country and under my breath, that I wasn't going to walk away leaving my passport with a 12 year old soldier in a $8 uniform and a big gun. Did I mention that you could buy guns in the market...much like WalMart at home. I behaved, I really did. I used to enjoy causing scenes at immigration but those days are long gone.

So, I had one more challenge before I could pee and smoke. I went to the Thai immigration. I had been told you could bribe for more days, but never told a price. I went up to the counter and told the lady that I wanted 30 days. She spoke to me in Thai. I looked at her. She spoke more in Thai. I still looked at her and said 30 days. She said 500 Baht. (I had heard as much as 1800). I looked at her. She got tired of me and told me to pass and gave me the 30 days. No money.This standing like a stupid idiot is the best way of bargaining that I have ever tried.

Anyway, I did it. After a little siesta, I have a whole new town of temples to look at. Crossed the Mekong River twice today.

1 comment:

  1. I love this story. We have all had these prickly third world border crossing moments - and frankly, they are dynamic and unpredictable. Looks like you have figured a few things out.

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